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AWARD WINNING ORGANICALLY PRODUCED WINES

 

     
  Irrigation  
Our Vine Yard tour continues with a look at irrigation practices.

We occupy what is, in essence, the northern tip of the great Sonoran desert system, a rain shadow in the lee of western coastal mountain ranges extending the length of North America. Our mean annual precipitation is 300 mm (as compared to Vancouver's 1200 mm). Irrigation is essential for any large-scale agricultural endeavour in the Okanagan, and the history of European settlement in the valley reads like a tracer line following the old, wooden irrigation flumes coming down from the hills to the valley below. (For example, Coldham Road, which bisects our property, is named for one of 3 pioneering Peachland farm families who built the area's first irrigation system.) Water is a valuable and political commodity, and many British Columbia growers have followed with interest and no small degree of irony the various Canada/U.S. treaties that always seem to result in our precious water being poured, at heavily subsidized rates, onto American crops which are then dumped back into our marketplace. Irony aside, we still think it makes more sense to use water for crops which feed people (directly or indirectly) than for nonfunctional, greedy lawns.

Our irrigation water comes from two sources; mountain reservoirs at Silver and Lacomo Lakes feeding into Trepanier Creek, and Okanagan Lake. The creek system is used until midsummer, when levels are depleted; we must then switch to water pumped from the lake. As organic growers, we are always conscious of the quality of the water all around us, as it will have a direct bearing on the integrity of our organic system. Anything which affects the quality of lake or creek water will affect the quality of our irrigation water; it's inescapable, and political, once again, as population density and recreational use of the lake increases.

Our organic growing guidelines, established by SOOPA and adopted by COABC, stipulate that water quality must be tested every 5 years in order to monitor compliance with minimum guidelines.

It takes a lot of water to irrigate a Vine Yard, but it takes a lot more to keep a golf course green. Farmers continue to be among the valley's most responsible water users, because they have always had to pay for irrigation water directly. Most households in the valley still pay for their water through taxes rather than through metering--it is no surprise that Canadians rank among the world's most prolific consumers/wasters of water.

We use a combination of two different watering systems. In the lower Vine Yard, planted with Riesling and Traminer, we use drip irrigation (a long pipe with inserted micro jets, running along the trellis line), and in the upper Vine Yards, we use overhead sprinklers. Drip irrigation is more efficient, as less water is lost to evaporation and more water is applied to the area directly around each plant. However, a drip system is about 5 times more expensive than an overhead system to install and maintain.

Irrigation commences in late May, as the vines begin their first spurt of new growth. We have experimented with various irrigation regimens, and have concluded that deep, long soakings benefit the plants more than shallow frequent applications. (We should point out, however, that irrigation practice continues to be a hot topic for research; new findings are being published every year. Grape specialists from the Agri-Food Canada Summerland Research Station just down the road from us have been leaders in this research.) The system, controlled by an automatic timer, is left on for 10 hours per block, and each block will be irrigated every 10 to 20 days, depending on the weather and the time of year.

The Vine Yard's moisture requirements vary throughout the growing season, with demand being heaviest in June and July and lowest in September as harvest approaches (although new research seems to cast some doubt on this). There is also some variance by variety. Monitoring is done through a combination of past experience, weather patterns, and techniques as prosaic as feeling the leaves; if they're hot, or if they feel limp, it's time to water. We do not use automatic sensors, although we are aware of other growers who have installed them.

What would happen if we decided to stop irrigating completely? Grapevines benefit from some water stress during the growing season, as it forces the plant into ripening its fruit instead of putting its energy into producing more foliage. However, with our light, sandy soil, our lack of appreciable precipitation or humidity for most of the summer and the high evaporation rate, the vines would quickly lapse into severe water stress without some irrigation, and would reach their permanent wilting point beyond which they cannot be revived. Leaves would begin to die and drop, and the plant's reduced photosynthetic ability would decrease its ability to produce ripe fruit. Berry size would decrease, as would juice volume. The quality of the juice would be unbalanced and unsuitable for good wine. Any bunches which were approaching ripeness may, with the lack of leaves, burn in the sun and be damaged, and would certainly be exposed to increased predation by birds. Vines with shallow root systems in poor soil, or vines which are otherwise compromised by disease or pests, may perish altogether.

What happens if we irrigate too much? Vine Yards which are fed lots of water, particularly those planted in heavier soils which retain water, appear to be very impressive, with bushy vigour, deep green leaf colour and huge clusters of berries. Unfortunately, while the fruit volume may be large, the quality is poor. The grapes take a lot longer to ripen, and in our growing season, they may not ripen at all before the plants shed their leaves. The juice will be high in acid, low in sugar and lacking in varietal intensity, and a winemaker will have to work technological miracles to make something palatable out of it. In a quality-driven international wine market, any grape grower who maximizes tonnage by over watering and over fertilizing the vines, thereby sacrificing fruit quality, is not going to be in business for long.

It's all a matter of balance and control. Too little or too much water are equally damaging to the plants, to the fruit and ultimately, to the wine. Our very sandy soil drains quickly, and in our climate, we run more risk of too little water than too much. In addition to careful monitoring of the irrigation system, we are constantly working to improve the soil's water retention by increasing its organic content. (This is accomplished through cultivation of ground cover and by the direct addition of compost.) Keep in mind that our observations are strictly based on our particular location; growers in other parts of the valley or the province, with different soils and micro climates, have their own stories to tell.
 
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